Many Japanese say that they are not religious or that religion and all it's trappings hold little day-to-day meaning for them. The phrase “Born Shinto, die Buddhist” is often uttered to describe the two times in an average Japanese  life when these two religions intervene. Aside from a few vaguely spiritual festivals which have become essentially social in nature, such as Hatsumode (the New Years Shrine visit), most Japanese seem to be an intensely practical people who eschew the supernatural. Or do they? 

     If you spend any time in Japan you will eventually become aware of strange little charms that almost everybody seems to have. You see them dangling from student’s leather backpacks and housewive’s key chains, hanging in the windows of Toyotas and set up discreetly in stores and restaurants. Virtually every Japanese I know has one or more of these “amulets” somewhere on their person, in their house or in their car.

     These talismans are called “Omamori” which roughly translates as “honorable protector.” They are literally magic charms and come from any number of shrines or temples. They supposedly contain and represent the power of the deity of the shrine or temple they come from. Omamori come in may different shapes and sizes and are usually made from such materials as wood, fabric, pottery, metal, straw or paper, but the most common form they take is that of a small, flat embroidered cloth bag with a loop at one end. Within (or on) this charm is usually a prayer or invocation as well as a symbol and the name of the deity it embodies. These inscriptions are usually in a very ancient form of Japanese that Shinto priests use to call upon the Kami in various rituals. Though Buddhist temples often sell various Omamori, it is generally Shinto shrines that provide them (for a price!) to the people who flock there. Some shrines are especially famous for effective Omamori and many people highly value the charms they provide. 

     People often get Omamori during special festivals. For example, New Years day is a time many people return their old Omamori to shrines where they will be ritually burned and then they buy new ones, this is a standard practice in that the “charge” of the Omamori is often believed to be temporary, lasting but a year. 

Doll Festival - Old dolls being blessed,  ready for spirits to be  releasesed.

Aside from these flat cloth charms, Omamori can look very unusual. Hamaya, a special Omamori that is designed to protect one’s house and family, is actually an arrow. As one man put it: “My god sends this arrow to protect me.” Often this arrow also has a picture of that year’s eto or animal symbol according to the Chinese zodiac.      Shrines that have special festivals marking an important divine anniversary often provides special Omamori at that time. In early January many Tenjin shrines sell wooden bullfinch Omamori, in March several famous temples sell magical Daruma dolls for luck and on “3-5-7" day many shrines sell special charms to protect children.       Though special amulets are often bought at annual events like these, most people go about obtaining their Omamori in one of two ways. Either they receive them as gifts, often from parents or loved ones, or they methodically get the ones they need from the shrines or temples they like and trust. As with many things in Japan, Omamori are often tailored for specific functions. Here are a few:

Old dolls are burned at a special shrine.

     Kotsu anzen Omamori: These are charms to protect drivers, but they function to protect all travellers as well. One man claimed that his Omamori saved his life during a motorcycle accident. He miraculously escaped unscathed and later found that the Omamori in his breast pocket had broken in half. He is still convinced that it broke instead of his body!

     Gakugyojoju Omamori: These charms, often from Tenjin shrines dedicated to the deity of writing, poetry and academic excellence, are for students trying to pass "exam hell" or any other test or class. They are very popular around springtime.

     Enmusuki Omamori: These amulets come in pairs, usually one white one and one red one, and are specifically for happy love and a successful marriage. Of course the man gets one and the woman gets the other!

     Anzan Omamori: These amulets are to help women who are pregnant protect the child, have an uneventful and comfortable pregnancy and an easy, safe delivery. Such shrines as Suitengu in Tokyo are particularly famous for these. Some are in the form of special obi or sashes that the women wear around their belly.

     Kanae Anzen Omamori: These are essentially “health” charms, though they can be seen as kind of preventative magic as well as a charm to help those who are already sick

     Shobaihanjo Omamori: These are talismans to attract money, success in business and general prosperity. Shrines of such "wealth" gods as Daigoku and Ebisu are famous for providing these charms.

     Ofuda:  These are more a form of Omamori as opposed to a kind of Omamori. They are usually wood or paper strips with the name and occasionally the image or symbol of a deity. They are usually thought to actually represent the deity itself and are often posted over doors to protect houses or placed on small home shrines, called kamidana.

     If you keep your eyes open, you will soon discover that just below the surface of an outwardly mundane modern Japan there lurks a deep and persistent belief in magic charms and unseen forces that can protect us and enrich us, if we but believe!